UTF is always down for missions. So when I heard of a building west northwest swell just off the coast of the Big Island, I quickly packed my board bag and, without hesitation, missioned to one of my favorite WNW swell point breaks. After trekking over the scorching a'a lava fields and tearing up my Locals' slippers, I came across double over head, offshore, glassy waves with an empty lineup.
Racing to be the first guy in the line up, I couldn't paddle out fast enough. After surfing for hours with no one in sight, I paddled in for some lunch that consisted of a handful of granola and a bottle of high quality H2O. While sitting on the beach admiring the surrounding beauty, I thought to myself this couldn't get any better. Not more than 5 minutes later, I noticed people coming up and over the hill. To my surprise, it was 10x world champion Kelly Slater, XXL Wave Rider and Big Island's own Shane Dorian and Kona local Tonino Benson.
With arms that felt like noodles after double sessions, I couldn't pass up this once in a life time opportunity to surf with these guys. So I paddled out for a third session of the day and scored it all time. Coming in and sitting on the beach collecting my thoughts, I snapped some photos of the sunset and thought, "Lucky we live in Hawaii."
Photos by Brad Fyffe